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Beyond the Bale : June 2019
The International Woolmark Prize is more than a fashion competition. An important aspect of it is to encourage the designers to develop new and innovative wool fabrications. Here we take a look at a selection of these innovations from five of the finalists in the 2018/19 competition. TEXTILE INNOVATIONS INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE SCREEN-PRINTED WOOL WITH PROTEIN-DISSOLVING PIGMENT On a lightweight 100% Merino wool weave, beige printed stripes have been pressed in contrast to the unprinted white, fluffy strips. A black ink pattern was then applied, which reacted differently on these two sections. A protein- dissolving pigment was then used to give a lace- effect, highlighted with a gold foil edge. EDWARDCRUTUCHLY-UK DYED WOOL JACQUARD FUR Imitation fur made from wool was developed with a jacquard pattern of six tones. These colours were created with environmentally friendly dyes, developed and engineered to show how well wool can take vibrant colour. ANGELCHEN-CHINA WOOL PUFFER JACKET The puffer features a lightweight insulated 100% wool fill bonded with corn fibre that’s ‘cooked together’ and washed in a chlorine-free process to produce a renewable alternative to conventional down or synthetic fill. The puffer outer is made from a traceable 90% wool fabric that is water- and wind-resistant. COLOVOS-USA FLOATING FLAT KNIT To emphasise Merino wool’s lightweight characteristics, i-am-chen changed the fundamental knitting structure by floating the 100% superfine Merino wool yarn over a monofilament so that the wool hangs decoratively on the surface. I-AM-CHEN-HONGKONG CHEMICAL-FREE WIND- AND WATER-RESISTANT WOOL OUTERWEAR A 100% wool OptimTM outer fabric, in which the yarn was pre-stretched before being woven to create the light but compact fabric that is water- and wind-resistant without the use of chemicals or coatings. COLOVOS-USA WAX-COATED CAVALRY TWILL Used in a bomber jacket and a utilitarian boot, Edward Crutchley’s cavalry twill – a traditional coat fabric made from 100% Merino wool by Dormeuil, with the weight and drape of leather – was wax-finished to make the textile durable and waterproof. EDWARDCRUTUCHLY-UK 20 OFF FARM