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Beyond the Bale : December 2017
Products using the water and wind resistant Neulana Protect fabric, made from 100% Merino wool, are now available to consumers across the world from brands, including Taylor Stitch/CIVIC (USA), ICICLE (China) and Devold (Norway). The Neulana Protect fabric is one of many innovative and high-value woven Merino wool fabrics that have been developed by the Wool Development Centre (WDC), which was set up in 2013 by AWI along with one of China’s leading woollen textile enterprises, The Nanshan Group. The fabric is constructed at very high levels of thread density in warp and weft using fine Merino wool yarns that has been stretched, but not set, during Optim processing. It is only when the fabric is wet-finished that the stretch is released causing the yarns to contract, thus leading to an extreme tightening of the fabric structure and the creation of the immensely dense fabric. After optimising the spinning, weaving and finishing processes, the fabrics made from these elastic Merino wool fibres have enhanced water and wind resistant properties (while retaining all Merino wool’s fine properties such as breathability) and are also machine washable, without any chemical treatments. The fabric has been promoted by AWI at trade shows and in The Wool Lab – AWI’s sourcing guide to the world’s best commercially available wool fabrics – with major brands, particularly in the sports/outdoor market, now launching products using the fabric. The fabric continues to be promoted by AWI. NEW DOUBLE-FACED OPTIM FABRIC The latest Neulana fabric – Neulana Double – is a double-faced pure wool fabric with a soft inner side. Following the commercial success of the initial Neulana Protect fabric, AWI and Nanshan have developed a new double- faced pure wool fabric manufactured using Optim technology. The latest innovation, called Neulana Double, is a 100% wool fabric with two very different surfaces. While the outer face is the same as the initial Neulana fabric and therefore smooth, the inner side is soft, lofty and brushed, and is suitable next to skin. By using special treatment technology, a loose-yet-full structure is formed inside the yarn on the inner side of the fabric, raising the ratio of fabric volume to weight. The result is an air-like, soft handle with voluminous characteristics. What is of particular interest is that whilst this fabric appears to be bonded, it is actually woven and so eliminates the need for any synthetics, glue, membrane or lining, and is suitable for high-end casual jackets. “AWI strives to lead the way in the development of technical and performance textiles, both knitted and woven,” explains AWI General Manager, Processing Innovation & Education Extension Julie Davies. “Market demand for technical fibres continues to increase and the development of Neulana Double is our response to this rising demand. Wool is an amazing performance fibre and modern innovations and collaborations have led to the creation of lightweight, technical fabrics for the modern- day consumer.” The new double-faced Neulana fabric was launched and showcased by AWI to the textile trade in September at the Première Vision trade show in Paris, and subsequent trade shows at which AWI exhibits, with the anticipation that products using the fabric will be available to consumers next year. MORE INFORMATION www.woolmark.com The Alvar Jacket from CIVIC Available to purchase now from www.wearcivic. com/products (shipping worldwide) Neulana Double fabric is a double-faced pure wool fabric with a soft inner side. MERINO WOOL WEATHER RESISTANT FABRIC Products using the water and wind resistant Neulana Protect fabric, made using OptimTM technology from 100% Merino wool and without any chemical treatments, are now available to consumers across the world. A new double-faced fabric made using Optim technology has also been developed and is currently being promoted by AWI to the textile trade. The Trollkyrkja Jacket from Devold made from fabric utilising OptimTM technology. 14 OFF FARM