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Beyond the Bale : June 2017
15,000 km from the sheep stations of Australia lies the historic tailoring strip of Savile Row in London, where some of the finest fabrics made from Australian Merino wool are used. Here we take a look inside the premises of one of the tailors, H. Huntsman & Sons, whose history is as exclusive as the premium fibres used in its suits. HUNTSMAN ON SAVILE ROW The interior of H. Huntsman & Sons on Savile Row in London. PHOTO: Jonathan Daniel Pryce Huntsman was the inspiration and the filming location for the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service. A sequel is scheduled for release in September. Surely, there is no more arresting repository of curios on Savile Row than Number 11, home to H. Huntsman & Sons since the company moved here in 1919 following its work during the First World War, supplying uniforms to the British military, and its attentions about to turn to the roaring twenties instead. The two stag heads gazing down from either side of the main mirror on the left were left behind by a customer who nipped out to get some lunch in 1921, got caught up in some kind of boisterous revelries and never returned. The framed, faded Royal Warrants on display testify to the impressive number of European monarchs who have, over the decades, crossed the threshold of a house often seen as the epicentre of British bespoke tailoring. While plenty of Savile Row establishments double as sartorial museums, the selection of garments on display here is truly eye- popping: a lapel-less frock coat bearing two large, sequinned peacock feathers, originally commissioned for David Bowie; Eric Clapton’s old hunting garb, returned to its birthplace following purchase at an auction; the frock coat Gregory Peck wore in The Million Pound Note. Head Cutter and Creative Director, Campbell Carey, says that he’s learned an abundance of trade tricks during his time with the tailoring house he’s always regarded as “the jewel in the crown” of London tailoring. “I thought I knew it all, but coming here I saw so many new little nuances and techniques – unique to Huntsman and passed down generations – that are part of the fabric of the place,” he said. “We do a lot of shooting clothes, field clothes, and there are pockets and details I’d never seen before until coming here: things like pinch pleats under a half-belt, rather than full shooting pleats, which gives lots of shape and ease of movement across the back of the jacket, and pockets with box pleats so that when you put cartridges in it, there’s plenty of room, but when you’re wearing it around town the pocket’s completely flat.” It’s such technical prowess, along with the inherent romance of garments being handcrafted in the UK (on the premises, in the case of Huntsman’s bespoke orders), that is currently making Huntsman a huge hit in Asia, according to Robert Bailey, a Senior Cutter who looks after the trunk shows there and typically spends about four months a year in the region. “People there are really well educated about tailoring, and know about the Huntsman silhouette,” he said. Another draw for discerning bespoke buffs is the vast number of exclusive, often markedly unusual fabrics available. “In 2007 Anthony Peck, Gregory’s son, was cleaning out his father’s estate and gave us over 160 garments, made by Huntsman from the early 60s right through to the 2000s, which gave us access to all these amazing old, forgotten house checks,” Carey said. “There was one jacket with a particularly distinct, unusual pattern that we all now call ‘The Peck Check’.” Perhaps the core ingredient of Huntsman’s hefty kudos, though, is the glossy names found in its archives. The jazz-era client list – The Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII), the Duke of Kent, Lord Charles Cavendish, Viscount Churchill, Rudolph Valentino, Ivor Novello – was followed by a strengthening of the house’s bond with Hollywood (think Laurence Olivier, Clark Gable and President- to-be Ronald Reagan). Much more recently, any notion of the house’s links with Hollywood were a thing of the past was dispelled in 2013, when Huntsman turned out to be the inspiration behind Hollywood spy thriller Kingsman: The Secret Service with Colin Firth and Samuel L Jackson, director Matthew Vaughn being a loyal customer since he was 18. Is the era-spanning celebrity factor an essential part of Huntsman’s identity and appeal? “It’s super-important, because everyone wants to dress like people they find aspirational and elegant,” says Pierre Lagrange, who purchased the house in 2013 and is currently Chairman of the Savile Row Bespoke Association. “Style icons are normally from the generation above, and yet everything improves. A gentleman’s suit has not changed that much in the last 100 years, but the Huntsman cut has been refined, purified, over the years by each new generation of cutters.” MORE INFORMATION www.huntsmansavilerow.com www.merino.com/fashion/man-style/ the-savile-row-guide/ OFF FARM 23
In the Shops - September 2017