HOW TO USE THIS ONLINE MAGAZINE
by clicking the arrows at the side of the page.
by clicking anywhere on the page. A slider will appear, allowing you to adjust your zoom level.
and move the page around when zoomed in by dragging the page.
and return to the original size by clicking on the page again.
by entering text in the search field and click on "In This Issue" or "All Issues" to search the current issue or the archive of back issues
a PDF of this magazine.
by clicking on thumbnails to select pages, and then press the print button.
a page via email, Facebook, Twitter and more.
TO VIEW PREVIOUS EDITIONS
, click the
button at the bottom of the screen.
Beyond the Bale : December 2016
Agroup of students in the USA are changing the way we think about fashion. Designing innovative and adaptive clothing for consumers with disabilities, the Open Style Lab program promotes the idea of universal and inclusive design. They are creating new products tailor made to specific client’s needs and making style accessible to people of all abilities, through innovative design, research projects and exhibitions. For the past two years AWI has provided support to Open Style Lab’s ten-week program held at MIT International Design Center in Boston for designers, engineers and occupational therapists. By offering wool workshops and technical advice, as well as an introduction to Chinese manufacturer Nanshan who supplied fabric, AWI was able to assist in the creation of SUITable, an adaptive sportscoat that is designed to be adjustable for continuous thermal comfort. The wool jacket features front flaps that easily open and close for added ventilation. There are also hidden pockets for convenience and accessibility. SUITable was made in response to the needs of Jim Wice, the Director of Disability Services at Wellesley College in Massachusetts. A spinal cord injury has affected Jim’s ability to move and feel below his chest. The jacket embraces the natural properties of Merino wool, such as temperature regulation and breathability. This year’s team – comprising occupational therapist Amy Fleischer (Tufts University), engineer Logan Sweet (Olin College of Engineering), and designers Jeongsu Lee and Searom Jung (Samsung Art & Design Institute, South Korea), in collaboration with Mr Wice – developed the product, using a temperature and humidity sensor to measure how well various laser-cut patterns retained heat and moisture so as to achieve the most efficient result. “Open Style Lab has been conscientious of sustainability efforts and has strived to use natural fabrics when and if possible,” explains Open Style Lab Executive Director Grace Jun. “Merino wool is among the highest quality of natural wool with softness that provides comfort. Comfort is a key theme that has frequently come across in our research and case studies over the past two years. AWI has really helped our fellows and clients understand the possibilities and potential of wool, in particularly Merino.” SUITable co-creator Amy Fleischer said Mr Wice has specific thermal comfort and adjustability needs secondary to a spinal cord injury. “We feel that clothing for individuals like him ought to reflect more than the medical needs of this community,” Ms Fleischer said. “SUITable's increased adjustability allows our client to be more comfortable in a variety of settings and to continue living his life in style. Technical innovations in wool manufacturing have helped us to create a jacket that addresses his needs and promotes a look that is personally satisfying. “As a fibre enthusiast (knitter), I have a strong affinity for working with wool. AWI’s presentation was very enlightening and it provided factual reasons to support my preference for natural fibres such as wool. AWI introduced wool as a performance fibre and explained its properties and benefits, such as the ability to manage moisture and help control temperature. These qualities stood out to our team as being highly relevant to the problems we aimed to solve with our garment. The MerinoPerform WP fabric was especially exciting for all of its technical innovations, as well as its clean surface, which provided the polished, professional look our client wanted.” Open Style Lab’s success has recently gathered the attention of The White House, where students were invited to take part in an inclusive fashion show. Three years and 60 solutions later, the program is now expanding into New York where it plans to grow inclusive design education and research, particularly at Parsons School of Design, where it currently offers an accredited course. Ms Jun also says they are currently in talks with fashion companies and manufacturers in New York City to commercialise their innovative products. MORE INFORMATION www.openstylelab.com CREATING CLOTHING FOR ALL ABILITIES When occupational therapists, engineers and designers came together for a special design project, they created new ways of working with wool to help those with disabilities. Designer Jeongsu Lee creating a pattern for the SUITable prototype at the Open Style Lab’s facilities in Boston, USA. The SUITable jacket, made from 100% Merino wool, was designed for the special needs of people with disabilities. 24 OFF FARM
In the Shops - March 2017