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Beyond the Bale : December 2015
OFF FARM 17 When it comes to fashion that’s equal parts innovative, laid-back and cool, designers Rajesh Pratap Singh and Suket Dhir weave ‘cool wool’ into their creations as the latter puts his best foot forward to score the coveted International Woolmark Prize this year. We turn the spotlight to Brooks Brothers, Park Avenue and Raymond who lend the GQ man a lesson in cool wool style THE CLUB COOL WOOL Delhi-based Rajesh Pratap Singh has created a unique signature style that subtly draws from his Rajasthani roots. Faultlessly clean lines, careful detailing and international silhouettes lend uniqueness to his unparalleled designs. Singh’s work epitomises simplicity, yet combines modern with traditional, complementing the unique attributes of the Merino wool fibre THE INDIAN INFLUENCE: “ We use traditional Indian techniques with a modern and global view to add an element of surprise. I remain influenced by the materials I use, my travels, the people and techniques that inspire me, as well as architecture and precision engineering.” The RAJESH PRATAP SINGH MAN: “ He is an intelligent and well travelled man, who understands and appreciates fine material as well as the construction of the clothes he wears . He is always willing to experiment.” DESIGN PHILOSOPHY: “ Modern, clean and pure. Indian, but not kitsch. The materials, construction and shape are paramount for me, rather than fleeting trends.” ON COOL WOOL: “ Wool is becoming integral to my designs . I have worked with wool indigo, wool Ikats and wool jacquards. It’s an aspect that is evolving rapidly, par ticularly for our main line, resulting in an individualistic, unique result. We have introduced a new dimension to traditional Indian textiles, most of which are hand-woven and hand-spun. To work with Merino wool from the fibre and yarn stage has been a fruitful challenge. Although I was announced as The Woolmark Company’s firs t Indian ambassador since 2013, I have been using Merino wool since I began designing—over the last two years I have received a lot of technical help to develop new textiles, which I weave in my textile facility.” THE IDOLS: Mahatma Gandhi, Keith Richards, Jivi Sethi, Serge Gainsbourg and most importantly, Vijay Sharma of Sikar. modern and pure aesthetic R AJESH PRATAP SINGH’S The opening spread in the GQ India feature that included reports on the use of wool by leading Indian designers and also a promotion of commercially available Cool Wool apparel. An exhibition at the GQ India Men of the Year which showcased commercially available Cool Wool apparel. The Cool Wool display featuring popular brands in China. 全天候 酷体验 Cool Wool酷羊毛不仅继承了 美丽诺羊毛的诸多优良特性, 更在此基础上,有了更多当下 时代语境的创意革新。顾名思 义,Cool Wool 酷羊毛旨在强调 新型羊毛面料的尖端性能。得 益于澳大利亚牧民创新饲养方 式与现代化纺织工艺的完美结 合,Cool Wool酷羊毛系列面 料以其三维立体的独特黄金结 构,有效阻挡紫外线且不易燃 烧,预防静电干扰,因其愈加轻 薄细腻的纺织构成,使其跨越 季节藩篱。 早在20世纪80年代,Cool Wool 酷羊毛面料首次亮相,在诞生之 初便大放光彩。随着科技的发 展,到了 21 世纪,Cool Wool酷 羊毛面料不断获得改良,其纤维 和纱线变得更轻更细,结合羊毛 面料的跨季理念,使着装者在极 端高温下保持凉爽。之所以被誉 为跨越季节的面料,这与羊毛作 为天然纤维的天赋异禀密不可 分。在高温的夏季,速干排汗、舒 适透气,让皮肤“深呼吸”是保 证舒适的主要需求。美丽诺羊毛 面料本身就是一个无形的人体 “空调”系统,通过其天然卷曲 的特殊物理构成,创造出无数细 微的隔热气袋,从而自如调整温 度。即使在炙热气候贴身穿着, 仍然细致惬意。 更值得一提的是,对于奔波于各 大都会之间的商务男士和热爱 饱览世界的旅行者,Cool Wool 酷羊毛绝对可以达到“一衣走 天下”的便利效用。从北半球 的夏天飞行到南半球的冬天, Cool Wool 酷羊 毛可以 轻松应 对全天候的温度变化,四季适用 的舒适行装难有其他可以比拟。 《冲上云霄》的确让张智霖冲上 了云霄,站上事业的新高度。 在过去很长的一段时间里,包括 现在,身边的很多人还是会叫 他“COOL魔”。 在张智霖看 来,能被形容为“COOL”的男 士,不仅要绅士、潇洒 ,更要有 男人的担当。 创意策划:GQIMC摄影:OliviaTsang造型:JackyTam文字:徐沉沉 酷越云霄 演完“COOL魔”之后,张智霖的工作变得 非常快节奏,很多事情都需要在很短的时间 内完成。比如,常常一个月内要去五六个国 家,对这种跨季节的空间穿梭,张智霖最大 的感触就是选衣服的难度被大大提高。至于 应对方式,他说 :“我一直想找到某种能适合 不同季节的服装面料,今天我所穿着的Cool Wool酷羊毛面料就可以很好地胜任。采用 Cool Wool酷羊毛面料的服装有很强的多功 能性,无论是休闲还是正式场合都非常适合; 尤其在旅途中我还会去一些高级餐厅,所以 一件不易褶皱的服装非常重要。” 酷越云霄 COOL MORE ●选择衣服时,你更看重款式还是面料? ●我已经到了成熟的年龄,所以我觉得衣服的面料 比较重要;而且我做了多年艺人,也穿过了很多不 同款式的服装,现在更喜欢简约舒适的感觉,自己 穿得舒适,别人看起来也会觉得舒服。如果穿着太 标新立异,自己也会觉得不适应,所以我会尽量选 择简单的款式。 ●那你喜欢什么材质的面料,之前有关注过羊毛面 料吗? ●我喜欢天然面料,羊毛当然也是其中之一。平时 买衣服都会尽量去找一些材质比较好的品牌,这样 就不需要常常更换款式。有些质地很好的羊毛衫是 可以穿很久的,比如今天这一件,它的质感和上身 的舒适程度就很棒。而且我的身材也不会在短时间 内有很大的变化,所以对我而言,相对贵的、但质 感够好的衣服是更合理的选择。 ●经过这次的拍摄,你对羊毛有没有一些新的 认识? ●当然,刚才也听介绍说除了秋冬之外其实春夏也 可穿着羊毛服装。夏天能穿着羊毛服装对我而言很 有吸引力,以前没有这个概念。今天拍摄穿着的羊 毛服装,上身之后那种轻薄柔软的触感我很喜欢, 而且它的透气性很好,确实不会让人感到闷热。 ●GQ Q&A ●张智霖 扫二维码关注 “Woolmark”微信 @Woolmark 关注官方微博 格纹西装 白色衬衫 均为Alfred Dunhill 印花领带 口袋方巾 均为Ralph Lauren Purple Label 海军蓝西装 浅灰色毛衣 均为 Alfred Dunhill 口袋方巾 Ralph Lauren Purple Label A page from the GQ China Cool Wool feature with Hong Kong actor and singer Chi Lam styled in an outfit from Alfred Dunhill. CHINA AWI was one of the proud sponsors of this year’s GQ China Men of the Year Awards, which took place in September in Shanghai. The event was the pinnacle of AWI China’s 2015 Cool Wool initiative and included a showcase of Cool Wool garments, imagery and video. Cool Wool garments are made from fine, lightweight Merino wool fabrics and are suited to warmer seasons and climates – thereby extending the traditional selling season of wool. After the event, the Cool Wool exhibition went on display during Shanghai fashion week with outfits from popular brands in China including Anzheng, Croquis, Notting Hill, Lacoste and Icicle Men. The GQ Men of the Year Awards event followed three months of advertorial in GQ China featuring models and celebrities, such as famed Hong Kong actor and singer Chi Lam, styled in brand partners’ Cool Wool outfits, who said: “Garments made from Cool Wool fabrics are highly versatile, they are suitable to wear for both casual or formal occasions.” GQ China has a readership of nearly 800,000 with the digital version having more than 187 million monthly page views. MORE INFORMATION www.gq.com.cn INDIA The October edition of GQ India included an 6-page Q&A feature with leading Indian designers Rajesh Pratap Singh and Suket Dhir, each one explaining their personal journey with Merino wool and passion for the fibre. “Wool is becoming integral to my designs,” said Singh. “It’s an aspect that is evolving rapidly, particularly for our main line, resulting in an individualistic, unique outcome. Although I was announced as The Woolmark Company’s first Indian ambassador in 2013, I have been using Merino wool since I began designing – over the past two years I have received a lot of technical help to develop new textiles, which I weave in my textile facility.” With a focus on Cool Wool, GQindia.com also features articles highlighting wool as a trans- seasonal fibre, which keeps you comfortable from “sultry Indian summers to freezing Siberian temperatures”. “If there is such a thing as an ‘It’ fabric, it has to be wool. This all-weather, versatile fibre ranks high on practicality and ups the ante on your cool factor,” the GQ India site proudly states, alongside style tips from Indian brands Raymond and Park Avenue and US brand Brooks Brothers, to help make “wool look cool”. AWI also supported the GQ India Men of the Year event in September. The high profile event also presented the opportunity for partner brands to showcase their Cool Wool apparel to attendees. GQ India has a readership of nearly 200,000 with the digital version having more than 4.5 million monthly page views. MORE INFORMATION www.GQindia.com
In the Shops - March 2016